Edging Technique #2 - Buttonhole part 2

Back to Hardanger lessons. If you want to go back and refresh, the previous lessons are in the "2007" blog posts. I've added an image to Buttonhole part 1, illustrating how you start this stitch. Starting is by far the hardest part - well, maybe explaining it is slightly harder! That lesson also covers what I call an "outside" corner. This lesson explains and photographically illustrates a "inside" corner, which you create in more complex pieces. It's definitely worth learning, because it opens up a whole new world of shapes for your creativity to explore!

After you turn your outside corner, you will work standard buttonhole stitches usually until you reach the end of a Kloster. The down hole of your buttonhole stitch will share a corner with the Kloster (see picture). The down hole of your next buttonhole stitch will share a corner with the perpenicular Kloster (my needle is in the shared corner of the second Kloster). The inside corner of the buttonhole is formed when the "up" hole is shared. In the picture, my needle is coming up in the loop formed from the previous up hole. It's a good idea to keep your thumb in the loop while you place your needle, turn the fabric, and bring the needle up. Then pull it taught as you pull your working thread through.

Catching this loop is essential to maintaining that ridged edge. When I learned this technique, it wasn't explained very well, and I had to figure it out on my own. You will get so that you will be able to effortlessly place, turn and pull on these inside corners.

By the way, these inside corners are the very best places to end your thread, because there's a natural break in the flow, and it isn't as obvious.

You can look at my "Baroque" piece for an example of some of the complex shapes you can create - there are a lot of inside corners on that one! You will also use this a lot if you are outlining simple diamond shapes.

Edging Technique #2 - Buttonhole part 1

Satin stitches are very simple, but they make a very plain edge. If you want something more decorative, consider buttonhole edging. This is probably the most common edging technique - it makes a very finished looking piece. These instructions are for creating a simple square or rectangle perimeter. There are additional instructions for more complex shapes, but I need to be sitting with needle and thread in order to be able to explain it.

Note: I'm right-handed, so I work my buttonhole stitches from right to left. If you are left-handed, you may need to work yours from left to right. This is a 2-handed stitch, and you're non-dominant hand determines which way you work.

Buttonholes are similar to a satin stitch. They generally cover 4 threads. Begin by bringing your needle up at the "top" of your stitch. Count down 4 threads, and go down through the hole, but do not pull the thread all the way through. Instead, catch a loop with your other hand (I use my thumb - see picture). I then bring my needle up in the top adjacent hole, coming up in the center of my loop. Then I pull taught, and my loop stays on top of my fabric. Then go down 4 threads, catch a loop with your thumb, and come up in the adjacent top hole. Pull taught. Continue this pattern. After a few stitches, you will notice that there is a ridged edge running. That is the basic of creating a buttonhole edge. It's tricky at first as you're reading the instructions, but keep trying and it will suddely become easy.

Turning a corner is the same as in the satin stitch technique (previous blog post). However, because of the ridged edge, you only need 3 stitches in the corner.

Something to note - coming up in the adjacent hole is only until you turn your first corner. I recommend starting at the far edge of the Kloster nearest a corner (see the picture again), so that you are only "off" for a few stitches. This will be fixed when you meet up at the end. Once you have turned the corner, you will be working in a direct line - coming up directly above where your needle went down, which is actually more natural. I find that it's easier to see what I'm doing when I offset the first few stitches like I described above, and then I make it up on the first corner. It's also easier to match up the stitches when I finish. Added 4/5/08, after I started buttonhole-ing for the other lesson.

Changing threads is a given in this kind of stitching. For buttonhole edging of this kind, change in the middle of a long row (i.e., not a corner). Leave your loop on top of the fabric, unthread your needle, re-thread with a new piece, run under a few stitches and come up in the appropriate hole. Then pull down on the tail of your "old" thread and tuck it behind where your next few stitches will be. Continue buttonhole-ing.

When you get back around to your starting point, you will need to "cheat" to make the final edge look finished. You will come up in your starting hole in the middle of your final loop, slip your needle under the top portion of your first stitch, pull taut, then go down in the same "down" hole you started with. You should have a finished, ridged edge running all around the project!

I like a buttonhole edge because it gives me a convenient line to follow if I want to use my piece as an applique. I just follow the ridge with my sewing machine!

As always, if something is unclear, please post a question in the comments section. You can also check the links section of this page for more information.

Edging Technique #1 - Satin Stitch

Well, by Laura's request, I'll cover edging next. I'd hate to leave her with unfinished ornaments!

Edging allows you to cut your project free of the larger piece of cloth and frame it, mount it, use it as an ornament, whatever. The easiest way to edge your project is to do a satin stitch perimeter - I usually do the same size as my Klosters, so over 4 threads. Pay attention when you get to the corners - you will want to share the corner hole with at least 3 stitches to turn the corner. When you get to the corner (starting from where your needle is entering the project), count over 2 and up 4, go down in the same hole, then count over 4 and up 4 (this is the point of your corner), go down in the same hole then count over 2 and up 4 (going down the other side). Each time you pull the thread taught, you will enlarge the shared hole.

Note: if you need the piece to be very sturdy, consider doing 5 stitches in the corner, instead of 3. Be sure to use your fray prevention product before you cut!

This technique works well for simple square, diamond or rectangular shapes. It's also a good option for pieces that have additional turns that would be awkward with Buttonhole Edging, which I will cover next.